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Don't Let Grille's Shopping Center Locale = Fool You

By Nancy Lewis

Thursday, = November=20 4, 2004; Page LZ06

There are days when I don't want fancy food, I just want really = good=20 food, a cozy booth to sit in and a friendly server to make it all = happen. On=20 those days, and others, I'd choose the Grille, a seven-month-old = restaurant in=20 Purcellville's Main Street Station.

Owner John Hoyer had dreamed for years of opening just such a = place,=20 where American classics would form the nucleus of the menu. He sold = three Subway=20 locations -- in Ashburn, Leesburg and Purcellville -- to pay for his = dream,=20 which opened April 14.

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Don't be put off by its location in a shopping center. This is = no=20 fast-food place. It's a smartly appointed space, with a large bar and an = art-filled dining room. Deep, upholstered booths ring the dining area, = and=20 elegant Queen Anne-style chairs flank the tables in the center of the = room.=20 There is also a smaller dining room that can be used for private = parties.=20

The atmosphere is lively, but you can carry on a conversation = without=20 shouting or straining to hear. Even more rare: The servers are = enthusiastic,=20 energetic and attentive. They also are eager to seek out information = about the=20 menu items (the good, crusty rolls are from a grocery wholesaler) and = even give=20 directions to nearby Hill High Orchard, which supplies the Grille's = apple pie.=20 There is also a well-chosen wine list, and more than a dozen selections = are=20 available by the glass.

Many of the menu offerings are standards, such as fried = calamari and=20 filet mignon, but are still attentively prepared under chef Jorge = Valenzuela.=20 Simple dishes are often the most difficult to prepare well. It's been a = long=20 time since I've had a pork chop as savory and juicy as that at the = Grille, or=20 such a good Caesar salad, including an anchovy, especially one that cost = only=20 $3.

Start with that calamari, crisp and light and served with both = garlic=20 mayonnaise (aioli) and marinara sauce. Or try the chicken quesadilla, = brimming=20 with melted cheese and slivers of chicken and served with guacamole, = shredded=20 cheese, pico de gallo and sour cream. I loved the jalapeno slices on = top, but=20 beware if you don't like fiery accents.

Soups change daily, and there is usually a bowl of chili = available. The=20 version here is more soup-like, with a tomato base and kidney beans, and = it's=20 served with a dollop of sour cream and a scattering of shredded = cheese.=20

Among the main dishes, order anything with the onion crisps or = order=20 these slender onion rings by themselves. They are that good. The filet = mignon,=20 perfectly cooked to medium as we had requested, comes with onion crisps, = as does=20 the pork chop. The chop, a hefty loin cut that is amazingly succulent in = this=20 era of ultra-lean pork, is complemented by saut=E9ed apples.

The Grille's specialties exhibit a New Orleans influence -- = with dishes=20 such as penne pasta with chicken tenderloins, andouille sausage and = shrimp --=20 and Italian tendencies, such as the chicken piccata, served over = angel-hair=20 pasta with a spoonful of marinara sauce.

My favorite dish was steak and eggs, patterned after eggs = Benedict.=20 Petite filets and poached eggs top two English muffin halves; a very = good=20 b=E9arnaise sauce replaces the usual hollandaise. The combination made a = wonderful=20 early dinner dish on a crisp fall Saturday.

The Dutch apple pie, served with cinnamon ice cream, is = enticing, but=20 the bananas Foster bread pudding is more so. It's the Grille's signature = dessert=20 and is not to be missed.

The Grille at Main Street Station, 1020 E. Main St., = Purcellville,=20 540-338-2550. Appetizers, $3-$9.50; main dishes, $9-$30. Hours: Sunday,=20 Tuesday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-10 = p.m.;=20 Monday, 4-10 p.m.; bar open until midnight daily. Wheelchair accessible. =

If you know of a food-related event or = restaurant that=20 you think deserves attention, please contact Nancy Lewis at lewisn@washpost.com.=20

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